Whenever you look at designer kitchens they always have tons of light sources and beautiful light fixtures.
My kitchen was lacking both.
As I started looking for lighting I had to get over the idea that all the lighting in your home needed to match. I have almost always lived in a home with matched lighting through out the entire house. I was also overwhelmed at how expensive it could be! You can easily spend $300-$400 on one light fixture not to mention the expense of hiring an electrician to wire and install new lighting. That type of cash was completely outside my budget.
Luckily I have a ridiculously handy husband who comes from a family of ridiculously handy men. They can fix, install or build anything.
We went with simple lighting from IKEA. They had clean lines and they would help us add a lot more light to our kitchen. We (and I think you all know by we I mean my husband) also installed recessed lighting we got from Home Depot.
We first changed out the light fixture above the dining table.
If you remember I had this light before.
And this is the light after.
This light set us back 50 bucks. Not bad.
Now, over the cooking area and bar I wanted a lot more light. I only had two light fixtures before. One was over the sink and one was in the middle of the ceiling. Every time I did anything in the kitchen I was always working in my own shadow.
We added pendant lighting above the bar but before hanging the light we had to decide where to place them.
I stood there staring at the ceiling over the bar wondering how I could figure out how to center them and make sure they were even. I finally went online and found some great suggestions.
First measure the width of your bar.
Find the middle of your measurement and mark the center of your counter top with painters tape.(If you like my counters you can find out how I painted them here)
Next you want to mark where the pendants will hang. Mark these spots with more tape. You may have to play with this a little. Just make sure if you are hanging multiple lights, that the distance between each is the same.
Next you want to take a very long piece of string and tie something heavy to the end like a washer. Attach the string to the ceiling with tape so the washer hangs directly over the intersections.
You may need to play with the positioning a little until you are happy. I would also recommend opening any cupboards that may get in the way to make sure you have given them enough clearance.
Now you need to figure out the length of your lights. Take another piece of blue tape and mark the height of where you think you would like your light.
Stand and sit around your counter to make sure the height is right. I had my kids and husband sit at the counter while I stood on the other side to make sure that they weren't too low and then my husband and I switched.
My husband cut the holes and wired the lights.
We (again my husband) also wired some recessed lighting and ended up installing 5 new recessed lights.
Here is the before lighting.
And here it is after. One of the recessed lights above the fridge was cut out of the picture.
We also added wireless puck lights under the cabinets. I am not sold on them yet. I don't have any "hidden" plugs behind the cabinets so I can't really use wired lights without cords and plugs dangling all over the place so I am stuck with them as an only option right now.
I am so happy with my new lighting. It is so nice to be able to see what I am doing and to create a bright and happy atmosphere.
A big thanks has to go out to my hubby for crawling around in the attic all afternoon to do this.
Love you babe!
So how about you guys? Is lighting that important to you or do you not really think about it? I know I really didn't until I started working on this kitchen. I am happy I took it into consideration and decided to add it to our kitchen.
Showing posts with label Money Saving Tips. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Money Saving Tips. Show all posts
Tuesday, May 10, 2011
Shedding a Little Light on the Issue: Kitchen Lighting
Labels:
Before and After,
Kitchen,
Money Saving Tips,
My Home,
Tutorials
Tuesday, April 19, 2011
Handmade Kitchen Furniture: An Ode to Anna White
For those of you that don't know who Ana White is, it's okay because I am going to introduce you.
Meet Ana White.
She is beautiful, a wife, a mama, an Alaskan and can build like no ones business.
Not only can she build but she shares all of her plans FOR FREE on her fantastic site that you can find here.
We used three of her plans to make our furniture for our "new kitchen" on the cheapo.
Let's review the extent of my kitchen furniture before.
Yep...that's it in all its glory.
Now this photo does not do justice to the table. My great-grandmother received this as her wedding gift. It was passed down to my grandma and then to my momma. It is a beautiful table but it did not fit the space well not to mention I cringed every time a toy was banged into it. The chairs were hand-me-downs from my mom and then we used folding chairs for the kiddos.
That is how my kitchen looked for the last 4 1/2 years because furniture is expensive!
Our first project was her very popular farmhouse table.
We printed the plans and shortened the measurements for the length of the table and got to work.
We (and by we I mean my hubby) cut all the wood and assembled the table according to Ana's instructions. After the hubster got it all put together I filled the screw holes and sanded it smooth with my new sander. We then brought it inside because it was still too stinkin' cold outside to stain it.
Now here is where the real process started. At first I thought I wanted a lighter "driftwood" look for the table. I used wood conditioner and a water based stain from minwax.
I topped it with minwax finishing paste.
I liked that the wax filled in the little cracks in-between the boards. I let it dry and it sat like that for a day or two. I kept trying to convince myself that I liked the table but I didn't. I don't have a picture of what it looked like but you can see a small corner of it here.
Also, the wax cracked where it had been pushed into the seams between the wood and I knew that I would have take a toothpick after every meal to clean out those little crevices.
So I started over. I sanded it down and scraped the wax out of the seams. I was trying to decide what to use in the seams to keep all those pesky crumbs out and decided to try some wood glue (I still am not sure why I though this was a good idea).
Anyway.
The glue did not work. Surprise. Surprise. So after it was dried I had to scrap all of it out and after talking to some other wood enthusiast and my mama I decided to try would filler. I bought minwax wood putty that was stained to match the stain I would use.
I got all the seams filled and waited for it to dry... and waited, and waited. I finally read the instructions and realized that wood putty does not dry. EVER.
So I scraped that out and bought some wood filler. I filled the seams and let it dry. I then sanded it smooth. I stained the table using a pretty dark stain called Jacobean. I used two coats and then sealed it with 2 coats of satin finish polyurethane.
I needed the tabletop to withstand my kids.
And here she is after the first coat of stain.
And here she is all done.
I love the way the dark stain pops against our blue walls. Our total cost on this table was around $175. I love the table and in increases the room we have for our family. I can actually fit all the food and plates on the table! Plus it would easily accommodate one more kiddo if we so decide.
The chairs for the table were not made by us but I found them through a local classified website. They were brand new and I paid $60 for all of them. I know I could have found cheaper used ones if I had been patient but I wasn't.
They started out with a cherry wood frame and a white damask fabric. I primed and painted them with a white gloss spray paint.
I removed the seats and cut Joel Dewberry's Acorn Chain in Pond fabric into large squares and stapled it right over the existing fabric.
I then added the seats back onto my chairs. I am so happy with them! I thought about adding plastic over the top but it was just too cheap/restaurant looking. I decided to scotch guard them and I kept enough fabric in case I need to redo one of the seats.
Total cost for my brand new chairs was around $80.
Next we tackled the matching farmhouse bench. We also shortened the length to match the table and my husband did the cutting and building and I filled holes, sanded and stained it to match the table.
Because we already had the screws, stain and polyurethane we only had to pay for the wood. I think the total cost came to $15 for the bench. This is where the kids sit and it is a little more hardy then the chairs.
Our last build from Ana's site were bar stools.
The bar stools were for an extra tall bar but I loved that they had backs. We shortened the legs and used 2 2x4's on the back instead of the 2x3's and used 2x6's for the seat. Ana's plans are so versatile and it really is easy to customize the plans to fit your space and needs.
I used the same stain on the bar stools.
I think we spent around $30 total for all 3 stools.This was our first time having bar stools and I love having them! The kids eat breakfast and lunch up there and it keeps me from having to wipe both the counter and table down after every meal.
So we were out around $300 for all our kitchen furniture! Thinking that this table goes for $2600 at Restoration Hardware I think we ended up pretty well.
Yeah, we're cheap like that.
So do you guys have any new ideas for kitchen furniture you are going to build? Visit her site and you will find at least a dozen plans that you will want to add to your to-do list for every room in your house.
I know my list is very, very long.
Go check it out and get building!
Meet Ana White.
![]() |
www.ana-white.com |
She is beautiful, a wife, a mama, an Alaskan and can build like no ones business.
Not only can she build but she shares all of her plans FOR FREE on her fantastic site that you can find here.
We used three of her plans to make our furniture for our "new kitchen" on the cheapo.
Let's review the extent of my kitchen furniture before.
Yep...that's it in all its glory.
Now this photo does not do justice to the table. My great-grandmother received this as her wedding gift. It was passed down to my grandma and then to my momma. It is a beautiful table but it did not fit the space well not to mention I cringed every time a toy was banged into it. The chairs were hand-me-downs from my mom and then we used folding chairs for the kiddos.
That is how my kitchen looked for the last 4 1/2 years because furniture is expensive!
Our first project was her very popular farmhouse table.
We printed the plans and shortened the measurements for the length of the table and got to work.
We (and by we I mean my hubby) cut all the wood and assembled the table according to Ana's instructions. After the hubster got it all put together I filled the screw holes and sanded it smooth with my new sander. We then brought it inside because it was still too stinkin' cold outside to stain it.
Now here is where the real process started. At first I thought I wanted a lighter "driftwood" look for the table. I used wood conditioner and a water based stain from minwax.
I topped it with minwax finishing paste.
![]() |
www.homedepot.com |
Also, the wax cracked where it had been pushed into the seams between the wood and I knew that I would have take a toothpick after every meal to clean out those little crevices.
So I started over. I sanded it down and scraped the wax out of the seams. I was trying to decide what to use in the seams to keep all those pesky crumbs out and decided to try some wood glue (I still am not sure why I though this was a good idea).
Anyway.
The glue did not work. Surprise. Surprise. So after it was dried I had to scrap all of it out and after talking to some other wood enthusiast and my mama I decided to try would filler. I bought minwax wood putty that was stained to match the stain I would use.
![]() |
www.homedepot.com |
So I scraped that out and bought some wood filler. I filled the seams and let it dry. I then sanded it smooth. I stained the table using a pretty dark stain called Jacobean. I used two coats and then sealed it with 2 coats of satin finish polyurethane.
I needed the tabletop to withstand my kids.
![]() | ||
www.homedepot.com |
And here she is all done.
I love the way the dark stain pops against our blue walls. Our total cost on this table was around $175. I love the table and in increases the room we have for our family. I can actually fit all the food and plates on the table! Plus it would easily accommodate one more kiddo if we so decide.
The chairs for the table were not made by us but I found them through a local classified website. They were brand new and I paid $60 for all of them. I know I could have found cheaper used ones if I had been patient but I wasn't.
They started out with a cherry wood frame and a white damask fabric. I primed and painted them with a white gloss spray paint.
I removed the seats and cut Joel Dewberry's Acorn Chain in Pond fabric into large squares and stapled it right over the existing fabric.
I then added the seats back onto my chairs. I am so happy with them! I thought about adding plastic over the top but it was just too cheap/restaurant looking. I decided to scotch guard them and I kept enough fabric in case I need to redo one of the seats.
Total cost for my brand new chairs was around $80.
Next we tackled the matching farmhouse bench. We also shortened the length to match the table and my husband did the cutting and building and I filled holes, sanded and stained it to match the table.
Because we already had the screws, stain and polyurethane we only had to pay for the wood. I think the total cost came to $15 for the bench. This is where the kids sit and it is a little more hardy then the chairs.
Our last build from Ana's site were bar stools.
The bar stools were for an extra tall bar but I loved that they had backs. We shortened the legs and used 2 2x4's on the back instead of the 2x3's and used 2x6's for the seat. Ana's plans are so versatile and it really is easy to customize the plans to fit your space and needs.
I used the same stain on the bar stools.
I think we spent around $30 total for all 3 stools.This was our first time having bar stools and I love having them! The kids eat breakfast and lunch up there and it keeps me from having to wipe both the counter and table down after every meal.
So we were out around $300 for all our kitchen furniture! Thinking that this table goes for $2600 at Restoration Hardware I think we ended up pretty well.
![]() | |||
www.restorationhardware.com |
So do you guys have any new ideas for kitchen furniture you are going to build? Visit her site and you will find at least a dozen plans that you will want to add to your to-do list for every room in your house.
I know my list is very, very long.
Go check it out and get building!
Labels:
Before and After,
Building,
Furniture,
Kitchen,
Money Saving Tips,
My Home
Friday, March 4, 2011
I Painted My Counters! Yep, That's Right...
While thinking about my kitchen redo this summer the one thing that kept bugging me was my counters. I knew my floor had been replaced, I could paint the walls, paint the cabinets, update the cabinet hardware but what could I do with those dang ugly dated counters.
I looked into laminate, granite, but everything was out of my super cheapo budget.
I did a ton of research and finally found out that I could paint those ugly dated counters to look like granite.
Paint them to look like granite? Are you serious?
Now that I can afford.
My hubby and I had to start the process after the kids were in bed. It is just impossible to keep them completely out of anything so we were up pretty late, seriously really late. So, I can't lie, I got very few pictures of the process.
I went to my local Home Depot and looked at granite. I also picked up some free samples to bring home and compared it to my "tile." Once I picked the sample that I liked, I took it to the craft store and matched acrylic craft paint to it. I picked a really dark brown, a dark brown, a dark tan and white.
My husband removed the sink and moved the oven. I scraped the counters to remove any excess gunk and wiped them down with 409 to remove any grease. I also used hot soap and water to wash them off.We taped off the counters and wrapped them with plastic drop cloth to protect the cabinets and floor.
We primed them with the same primer I used on the cabinets, Sherwin Williams Adhesion Primer.
We let that dry thoroughly.
So the next few steps I completely forgot to take pictures. First we coated the counter with a layer of black latex and let it dry. All granite's base is black even if the overall effect is brown or white.
Next I started to faux finish the counter. I used a natural sea sponge to sponge on the color. I started with my main dark brown color. I used the really dark brown color to create some accent veins. Make sure you turn your sponge and maybe use more then one to create different patterns on your counter.
I used the dark tan to create more accents. I also used the white to create even more accents. It was around one AM at this point when I ran out of paint so the hubby ran to Walmart and picked up some more. (Thank goodness it is open 24/7). When he got back I sponged the white on and then I went back with the dark brown to soften it. This was the end result. Sadly the camera does not show how good it really looks. You don't need to let each layer dry in between colors but you do need to let it dry completely before going onto the next step.
Next cam the scary part. We used a product called envirotex lite. This product creates a hard super shiny surface. You can buy it at Hobby Lobby and I would recommend using a 40% coupon to help make it even cheaper.
The kit comes with two seperate bottles, one is a resin and the other is a hardener. You mix them in equal parts in a straight sided bucket. You really have to mix it well, the instructions say at least 2 minutes. We mixed it for one in minute in one bucket and then poured it into a second bucket and mixed for another minute. Make sure you scrape the sides and bottom well. If this product is not mixed correctly you will get spots that will not harden.
Then you get to the really scary part.
You have to pour it on the counter and after you do that, there is no turning back.
Before you start make sure you kill any and all flies in your house! My hubby and I joked about how funny it would be to wake up to find a fly stuck in our counter. Well it happened. Not funny. We had to sand that sucker off.
Gross.
My hubby poured the epoxy on the counter and used a rubber squeegee to evenly spread it over the surface. This product is a self leveler but you do need to pour enough onto your counter to allow it to level correctly.
The instructions said to use a propane torch to help bring the bubbles to the surface to pop. Well we decided to just use lighters. Not. A. Good. Idea. This began my hubbies second trip to Walmart but it was now 2 AM. The people there were wondering what in the world he was up to and why he needed craft paint and a propane torch in the middle of the night.
Using the torch was so much easier and I would highly recommend it. You will want to buy some sponge brushes to wipe the drips of the edge and to keep re-applying it to the edges of your counters.
Look how shiny it is. LOVE IT.
I have now had the counters finished for about 4 months and I really, really like them. They have held up really well and I think they make my kitchen look updated and fantastic. I have been cleaning them with glass cleaner to help keep up the shine.
So I am giving you a pretty big peak as to what my kitchen is looking like now. You still don't get to see everything but I wanted you to appreciate the counters in all their glory.
I looked into laminate, granite, but everything was out of my super cheapo budget.
I did a ton of research and finally found out that I could paint those ugly dated counters to look like granite.
Paint them to look like granite? Are you serious?
Now that I can afford.
My hubby and I had to start the process after the kids were in bed. It is just impossible to keep them completely out of anything so we were up pretty late, seriously really late. So, I can't lie, I got very few pictures of the process.
I went to my local Home Depot and looked at granite. I also picked up some free samples to bring home and compared it to my "tile." Once I picked the sample that I liked, I took it to the craft store and matched acrylic craft paint to it. I picked a really dark brown, a dark brown, a dark tan and white.
My husband removed the sink and moved the oven. I scraped the counters to remove any excess gunk and wiped them down with 409 to remove any grease. I also used hot soap and water to wash them off.We taped off the counters and wrapped them with plastic drop cloth to protect the cabinets and floor.
We primed them with the same primer I used on the cabinets, Sherwin Williams Adhesion Primer.
We let that dry thoroughly.
So the next few steps I completely forgot to take pictures. First we coated the counter with a layer of black latex and let it dry. All granite's base is black even if the overall effect is brown or white.
Next I started to faux finish the counter. I used a natural sea sponge to sponge on the color. I started with my main dark brown color. I used the really dark brown color to create some accent veins. Make sure you turn your sponge and maybe use more then one to create different patterns on your counter.
I used the dark tan to create more accents. I also used the white to create even more accents. It was around one AM at this point when I ran out of paint so the hubby ran to Walmart and picked up some more. (Thank goodness it is open 24/7). When he got back I sponged the white on and then I went back with the dark brown to soften it. This was the end result. Sadly the camera does not show how good it really looks. You don't need to let each layer dry in between colors but you do need to let it dry completely before going onto the next step.
Next cam the scary part. We used a product called envirotex lite. This product creates a hard super shiny surface. You can buy it at Hobby Lobby and I would recommend using a 40% coupon to help make it even cheaper.
The kit comes with two seperate bottles, one is a resin and the other is a hardener. You mix them in equal parts in a straight sided bucket. You really have to mix it well, the instructions say at least 2 minutes. We mixed it for one in minute in one bucket and then poured it into a second bucket and mixed for another minute. Make sure you scrape the sides and bottom well. If this product is not mixed correctly you will get spots that will not harden.
Then you get to the really scary part.
You have to pour it on the counter and after you do that, there is no turning back.
Before you start make sure you kill any and all flies in your house! My hubby and I joked about how funny it would be to wake up to find a fly stuck in our counter. Well it happened. Not funny. We had to sand that sucker off.
Gross.
My hubby poured the epoxy on the counter and used a rubber squeegee to evenly spread it over the surface. This product is a self leveler but you do need to pour enough onto your counter to allow it to level correctly.
The instructions said to use a propane torch to help bring the bubbles to the surface to pop. Well we decided to just use lighters. Not. A. Good. Idea. This began my hubbies second trip to Walmart but it was now 2 AM. The people there were wondering what in the world he was up to and why he needed craft paint and a propane torch in the middle of the night.
Using the torch was so much easier and I would highly recommend it. You will want to buy some sponge brushes to wipe the drips of the edge and to keep re-applying it to the edges of your counters.
Look how shiny it is. LOVE IT.
I have now had the counters finished for about 4 months and I really, really like them. They have held up really well and I think they make my kitchen look updated and fantastic. I have been cleaning them with glass cleaner to help keep up the shine.
So I am giving you a pretty big peak as to what my kitchen is looking like now. You still don't get to see everything but I wanted you to appreciate the counters in all their glory.
Labels:
Faux,
Kitchen,
Money Saving Tips,
My Home,
Tutorials
Wednesday, February 16, 2011
Faux Antique Tin Backsplash
What a week I've had. I was in the middle of sewing a darling pettiskirt for my Ms V (taking pictures for ya'll to see) when my camera died. No problem I'll just charge her up, good as new, right?
Wrong.
I went up to my room and there was the camera case sitting on the floor, open, charger missing. Pretty sure it was Mr U my 2 year old. He is so mischievous.
Anywho, I finished some cute clothes this last week for the kiddos and hopefully I will get some tutorials up soon. The weather here has been beautiful the last few days and I have wanted to get some outdoor projects done but I want to take pictures.
So, wish me luck in my search. So far it hasn't been in any of his usual hiding places.
Maybe I can talk the hubby into just buying me an SLR camera instead :)
Anyway, onto the tutorial.
I was really inspired by beautiful antique tin.
But I could not afford the real stuff. So I went to my fallback, faux finish it.
First I peeled off the real cheap laminate backsplash.
I sanded the wall smooth and then I used a utility knife to scrape off all the silicone and gunk off the counter.
I primed the wall to prepare it for my tin...wallpaper.
I am sure you all have heard of paintable embossed wallpaper. I got mine at Home Depot for I think around $20-$25. I cut the wallpaper down to the rough dimensions I needed and because it was pre-pasted I just rolled it in water, booked it (you fold sticky sides together and roll it up) and let it sit. I then hung it on the wall and used a squeegee to smooth it out. I also used a utility knife to make more exact cuts.
I then painted the wall with a gray oops paint and let it dry
I then painted white over the top and wiped it off until I liked what I saw.
I finished up with two coats of polycrylic to seal everything up tight. I used polycrylic because it is water based and it doesn't yellow like polyurethane.
I am still trying to decide what to do with the outlet covers. Ideas? I am just not sure what would look best.
Seriously, wish me luck on my search...
Wrong.
I went up to my room and there was the camera case sitting on the floor, open, charger missing. Pretty sure it was Mr U my 2 year old. He is so mischievous.
Anywho, I finished some cute clothes this last week for the kiddos and hopefully I will get some tutorials up soon. The weather here has been beautiful the last few days and I have wanted to get some outdoor projects done but I want to take pictures.
So, wish me luck in my search. So far it hasn't been in any of his usual hiding places.
Maybe I can talk the hubby into just buying me an SLR camera instead :)
Anyway, onto the tutorial.
I was really inspired by beautiful antique tin.
But I could not afford the real stuff. So I went to my fallback, faux finish it.
First I peeled off the real cheap laminate backsplash.
I sanded the wall smooth and then I used a utility knife to scrape off all the silicone and gunk off the counter.
I primed the wall to prepare it for my tin...wallpaper.
I am sure you all have heard of paintable embossed wallpaper. I got mine at Home Depot for I think around $20-$25. I cut the wallpaper down to the rough dimensions I needed and because it was pre-pasted I just rolled it in water, booked it (you fold sticky sides together and roll it up) and let it sit. I then hung it on the wall and used a squeegee to smooth it out. I also used a utility knife to make more exact cuts.
I then painted the wall with a gray oops paint and let it dry
I then painted white over the top and wiped it off until I liked what I saw.
I finished up with two coats of polycrylic to seal everything up tight. I used polycrylic because it is water based and it doesn't yellow like polyurethane.
I am still trying to decide what to do with the outlet covers. Ideas? I am just not sure what would look best.
Seriously, wish me luck on my search...
Labels:
Faux,
Kitchen,
Money Saving Tips,
My Home,
Tutorials
Monday, January 31, 2011
Painting Kitchen Cabinets Tutorial
Now don't get me wrong, I love wood cabinets.
I think they can be beautiful and make an ordinary home look expensive and custom. Sadly, the wood cabinetry in my home did nothing but make my house look dated and cookie-cutter but I definitely did not have thousands of dollars to buy beautiful new cabinets.
So what do you do when life hands you dated oak cabinets? Why, you paint them of course!
Again I went to Google and searched for kitchens. I loved the clean lines of simple white cabinetry. I also went to Home Depot and Ikea and walked around their kitchen sections and looked at their cabinets. After deciding on the look I wanted I went to work.
First I removed all the doors and drawer fronts. I put all the hinges into one baggy, the current knob handles in another baggy and the screws that held the drawers fronts on in another. Most drawer fronts are glued on but because my house is a little over ten years old the glue wasn't doing much to hold them on.
Here are my cabinets after removing the doors.
Here are my drawers after removing the fronts.
You will need to clean your cabinets well. I filled my tub with a little water and a small amount of dish soap. I knew that the top of the cabinet doors would be greasy but I was shocked at how greasy the doors were where we touched them every day.
Gross.
I even wipe by cabinets down... sometimes. I used a scrubby sponge and scrubbed them clean. Then I towel dried them and set them out overnight to dry.
I then used wood putty and I filled all the holes from the old hardware because we had bought new hardware. I also filled any big dings. I used white wood putty because I was painting them white but you can use any kind that you can paint. I filled the holes, let it dry and sanded them. There were a few I had to fill and sand again.
I primed the cabinets using Sherwin Williams Adhesion Primer. This primer is specifically for things like cabinets that are normally hard to paint without sanding or stripping. I would recommend buying a nice small roller, large roller and brush for this. I used a roller to cover most of it and then I used a brush to get into corners. I painted both the fronts and backs of my cabinet doors and also the inside rims of the cabinets.
Here are my doors and drawer fronts after one coat of primer.
I started by painting some inside my house and don't worry, Mr. U got to them.
I used two coats of primer and I sanded after each coat. Next I used ProClassic paint from Sherwin Williams. This paint is specifically made for doors, trim and cabinets. It is a paint that drys hard and holds up against abuse. It is a thicker paint and while we didn't have any problems with it I know that some people have. Another good paint choice is Sherwin Williams Duration paint.
Quick money saving tip. If you do use Sherwin Williams paint, search for "printable Sherwin Williams coupons" online. You should be able to find one for 10%-30% off your purchase.
We just used their base bright white because we wanted our cabinets to match out trim. I used three coats of the ProClassic but I did not use any sealer or top coat. I also sanded between each coats to give it a nice smooth finish.
My handy hubby also cut and added crown moulding around the top and small decorative moulding around the bottom. Because we were painting the cabinets white we were able to buy cheaper pine and composite moulding without worrying that is wasn't the same wood type.
I just love how they turned out. You will have to wait for the big reveal to see the new hardware. I will also be doing a tutorial on why I cut up the doors on some of my cupboards! I am so excited to show you guys everything that has changed.
Faux brand new cabinets for around $150 for everything. Much better than thousands of dollars!
I think they can be beautiful and make an ordinary home look expensive and custom. Sadly, the wood cabinetry in my home did nothing but make my house look dated and cookie-cutter but I definitely did not have thousands of dollars to buy beautiful new cabinets.
So what do you do when life hands you dated oak cabinets? Why, you paint them of course!
Again I went to Google and searched for kitchens. I loved the clean lines of simple white cabinetry. I also went to Home Depot and Ikea and walked around their kitchen sections and looked at their cabinets. After deciding on the look I wanted I went to work.
First I removed all the doors and drawer fronts. I put all the hinges into one baggy, the current knob handles in another baggy and the screws that held the drawers fronts on in another. Most drawer fronts are glued on but because my house is a little over ten years old the glue wasn't doing much to hold them on.
Here are my cabinets after removing the doors.
Here are my drawers after removing the fronts.
You will need to clean your cabinets well. I filled my tub with a little water and a small amount of dish soap. I knew that the top of the cabinet doors would be greasy but I was shocked at how greasy the doors were where we touched them every day.
Gross.
I even wipe by cabinets down... sometimes. I used a scrubby sponge and scrubbed them clean. Then I towel dried them and set them out overnight to dry.
I then used wood putty and I filled all the holes from the old hardware because we had bought new hardware. I also filled any big dings. I used white wood putty because I was painting them white but you can use any kind that you can paint. I filled the holes, let it dry and sanded them. There were a few I had to fill and sand again.
I primed the cabinets using Sherwin Williams Adhesion Primer. This primer is specifically for things like cabinets that are normally hard to paint without sanding or stripping. I would recommend buying a nice small roller, large roller and brush for this. I used a roller to cover most of it and then I used a brush to get into corners. I painted both the fronts and backs of my cabinet doors and also the inside rims of the cabinets.
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Image from Sherwin Williams |
Here are my doors and drawer fronts after one coat of primer.
I started by painting some inside my house and don't worry, Mr. U got to them.
I used two coats of primer and I sanded after each coat. Next I used ProClassic paint from Sherwin Williams. This paint is specifically made for doors, trim and cabinets. It is a paint that drys hard and holds up against abuse. It is a thicker paint and while we didn't have any problems with it I know that some people have. Another good paint choice is Sherwin Williams Duration paint.
Quick money saving tip. If you do use Sherwin Williams paint, search for "printable Sherwin Williams coupons" online. You should be able to find one for 10%-30% off your purchase.
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Image from Sherwin Williams |
We just used their base bright white because we wanted our cabinets to match out trim. I used three coats of the ProClassic but I did not use any sealer or top coat. I also sanded between each coats to give it a nice smooth finish.
My handy hubby also cut and added crown moulding around the top and small decorative moulding around the bottom. Because we were painting the cabinets white we were able to buy cheaper pine and composite moulding without worrying that is wasn't the same wood type.
I just love how they turned out. You will have to wait for the big reveal to see the new hardware. I will also be doing a tutorial on why I cut up the doors on some of my cupboards! I am so excited to show you guys everything that has changed.
Faux brand new cabinets for around $150 for everything. Much better than thousands of dollars!
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Money Saving Tips,
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